Days Out in Metro Manila

I sometimes feel such a fraud as here I am, an Englishman, with a 20-word Tagalog vocabulary and I’m telling you about Manila and the Philippines. Yes, hands up, I should stand aside and let a real expert in to take over this blog.

Well, I will even go as far as to confess that much of the time I’ve been here over the last 7 years have been spent lying on my fat arse making me even more unfit to report. So all I’m offering really is an account of how it’s been for me. So maybe it’s time to start putting you in touch with some more authoritative people and give you a few links so you can explore for yourself.

Probably the best known tourist guide as well as social activist for want of a better term is Carlos Celdran. I hadn’t been here all that long when I saw a program on the Living Asia channel.

The program in question featured Carlos on a tour of Chinatown. It may have featured more as I joined the program late, but what I watched had me spellbound. Not only does he give you incredible information, the guy is pure entertainment. I plan to go on one of his tours myself. I have no idea why I haven’t done so already; just one of those things.

Carlos is fully aware of the contradictions in Filipino culture and graphically highlights much of this by pointing out the mixing of Chinese, Catholic and native tradition and tells it how it is. I can honestly say it was a mesmerizing watch. I’m certain that going on one of his tours would be all the more entertaining than simply watching him on TV. On his website, he also lists other guides that you can consider but I think Carlos is terrific value for money and you will return back to your accommodation knowing a lot more and have a far better understanding of Manila life, its people and culture.

Ordinary Living

I’ve eaten here and there; loved it, hated it, and it’s been okay sometimes, but to tell you the names of the places I would have to run back over old ground. I’m in the process of doing that and that’s another article for another day. Personally, I am not a TGI Fridays type. Nothing wrong with it and it’s very much used by expats and visitors alike and the food is yummy, but it’s out of my price range.

I personally tend to eat out of local eateries which are just about everywhere. You’re never far from food wherever you go in Metro Manila. It’s not what many who are here for a brief stay would probably be interested in but it’s very much a piece of real Filipino life. The nice restaurant or should I say more up market places are out of the range for most ordinary Filipinos sadly. There are many who can afford it and I tend to find if the food was cheaper, then the beer was very expensive. Sometimes it’s the other way round. When I say expensive, even the more up market prices are a lot less than what we pay in our home countries.

Eateries are simply where everyday Filipinos eat maybe in their lunch break. Some eat exclusively at such places as they may be residing in a dormitory which possibly lacks cooking facilities. Many working locals not only do an 8-hour day or often more; they also have a 2-hour commute to and from work taking an additional 4 hours every day out of their lives. Food in eateries is cheap therefore a natural lure for the overworked underpaid populace of Metro Manila.

I’ve got drunk in local videoke bars, tramped around every mall and touched on many areas. But on most occasions, I simply chose places randomly for better or worse.

It definitely has its moments, if you spend all your time in the hotel bar or eat in quality restaurants; the only locals you will experience will be the waiter.

Virtually anywhere in Metro Manila, you are never far from a mall. Some are large, some small, some old and some new, but none are as huge as the SM Mall of Asia in Pasay City, Metro Manila. MOA is the biggest and not only good for shopping, but eating, drinking, cinemas, a convention center also an amusement park, events venue with over 10,000 capacity, and it even has an ice rink.

Malls are everywhere. They can be quieter on weekdays between paycheques especially, and teeming at weekends, especially the weekend after payday.

Some have indoor market areas selling mostly clothes and general haberdashery, mobile phones, laptops and tablets generic or otherwise. Outdoor stalls are never too far away from any mall as retailers hope to take advantage of the passing crowds selling everything from street food to jackets and DVD’s (pirated, of course).

Some malls are up market and some old and decrepit. I find some of the older ones as enjoyable as the modern ones having less emphasis on the usual brands, and where you can find ukay-ukay stores among school supplies, DVDs, musical instruments and pretty much everything. If you’re as Kuripot (tight-fisted) as me, then the overruns and sometimes second-hand stock in ukay-ukay stores are a great way to find something different at often incredibly cheap prices. If you’re not too snobbish and think wider than branded clothes, you can find items for as low as 50 pesos and even less sometimes.

Markets are everywhere too and also very much a feature of everyday life for Filipinos. The main wholesale area is Divisoria in Chinatown where you will find cheap imports as well as fruit, veg, wet and dry goods, and just about anything else from electrical to paper and curtains at possibly the cheapest prices in the whole of the Capital. In fact, pretty much everything is at Divisoria, the most significant market in all of Metro Manila. It is not just a market in the traditional sense, as it has stalls alongside stores in a variety of malls from old to new. The more traditional outdoor market is worth braving the excessive crowding for, and after spending a few hours at Divisoria, there is no shortage of interesting places to eat.

However, a word of advice. Only yesterday I wasn’t cautious and fell prey to a very talented thief. I had a backpack thrown over one shoulder. I felt a mild movement from my bag, barely noticeable. I thought at first someone passing by behind had lightly brushed past and thought that was what I had felt. I turned around and only saw the usual crowds walking by, nothing unusual but noticed a front zip was open. Straight away I knew what had happened and I had a cellphone in there. Before I checked, I knew it was gone. I had been warned to be careful when in Divisoria as pickpockets and snatchers take advantage of the crowds. Best advice is if you have a back pack, wear it on your chest where you can see it. Don’t keep a wallet or phone in a trouser pocket. These thieves are damned good, be very careful.

Other prominent markets in Metro Manila include Farmers market in Cubao, Quezon City, Blumentritt, Manila, Commonwealth again in Quezon City.

Beyond these markets are 100s of smaller neighbourhood markets and unofficial ones that seem to spring up along every highway, unused corner or bridge.

Many here kill time in Malls even those without money. I’ve seen crowds of 20 watching the pictures on the display TVs in shop windows just to pass time. Malls are far more than shopping. They are where everybody meets, dates and enjoys the free air-con. Some come to use the chapel and some even come to shop, you may be surprised to know.

Market (Palengke) is a little more hard-core jostling with crowds, carts and tricycles and definitely more tiring, but still a great way to see some real life here whilst grabbing bargains and pigging out all at the same time.

Naturally enough you’re going to hear “Hey Joe” 30 times over and some traders may raise the price when you enquire, but mostly they don’t, and the same in stores.

As much a day for watching than spending and a great view into people’s lives here, should you want to see. But there again, you could sit in TGI Fridays but it’s your choice.

Metro Manila, the Positive Post Some Desire

Allow me to begin on a serious note. Criticisms have not been much really and I could possibly be accused of making too much of it. But after having posts deleted from a group and comments from people (never directly to me) with some complaining my posts have a negative tone and requesting my posts not be allowed into certain groups, well this is my simple answer to you.

Also, to a very unpleasant expat group that objected to me because somebody who blogs for no money is apparently spamming. As it’s the internet, I thought it was normal practice to share your blog. This blog I write for free and I have not even earned a cup of coffee nor did I get a doughnut for anything I have written. I do it because I love to write and because I want to see something good come out of it one way or another.

I also ask that group of people who believe I am doing their country down to actually read the posts and not make judgments after the first paragraph. Also, remember I am writing about Metro Manila predominantly. After I get to spend a day on the beach lying with other fat whities like myself then maybe I will say it’s great. As nobody is inviting me to paradise, I write about Metro Manila. I invite anyone to correct me when I’m wrong, and said that from my very first pieces.

However, to emphasize my point, I will give you what you want for today if only to show the ridiculous nature of your claims.

Metro Manila, Paradise on Earth

When I wake in the morning, often awaken by happy dogs locked in cages, and screaming, lovable, adoring children whose ever smiling fathers are blasting music from a tricycle, I often think how great life is for 12 million lucky people.

As I open the window and fill my lungs with smog, I often say to myself, thank you lord for giving me the opportunity to be in a place where anywhere will seem like paradise after. I’m lucky just like the other 12 million happy smiling inhabitants of the metropolis.

Not wanting to miss any of the excitement of a thriving buzzing city, I step out where happy adoring locals are shouting out “hey Joe” and laughing at me simply because I’m foreign. Delightful and makes me feel so good to be alive.

As I skip down the road happily, playing a game of “don’t fall down that bloody hole”, I enjoy seeing the piles of garbage that only go to show that the good people of Manila have empty bins in their houses, and share the contents of their lives with all of us.

It’s time to catch the bus. I go to the smiling sari-sari store owner on route to get some personal requirements and I’m quaintly told how they cannot change a 500 peso note. But still, it reminds me how lucky I am to have a 500 peso note for them not to be able to serve me due to the simple, adorable characteristic of not knowing that businesses actually operate using money.

So I merrily wait as 12 buses pass me by full, and eventually manage to catch one that has a space on the dashboard for me. I chat with locals whose breath and armpits are in my face, where else can you be so close to the people who are so accepting of my armpits and arse in their face, too.

Whilst traveling with my head lodged in an armpit, I notice a downpour which refreshes the air and brings down the smog; it’s going to be a lovely day. As I step off the bus into 2 feet of water, I have the opportunity to soak my feet.

Even more delightful, I then have an opportunity to be bounced off a polluting stainless steel jeepney, and enjoy all the cultural significance of being run down by a vehicle with so much history behind it. By now, I’m full of the spirit of living in a thriving city and heartily smile at the children who charmingly ask me for money. I notice other little darlings who selflessly pick up all the plastic to keep the city clean. Where else can you see so many little abandoned children happily trying to survive? Life is good and I feel so lucky as I am not in the shoes that they don’t have.

Smell the Coffee

I was going to go on as I was enjoying myself for a while but I think I’ve made my point. Before offense is taken, please note this is a spoof post and none of it is meant. It’s just trying to say that if I’m going to write about one of the most overcrowded capitals in the world where poverty is rife and that it is that way due to controlling interests of the elite whom local people give power to then it’s not going to be easy to say solely positive things. I don’t know what’s outside others’ windows but I’m in Metro Manila, and that’s what I see every day, how do I not mention it or skip past it.

I am searching out positives and I always offer explanations for some of the crazier things that go on in this collection of cities. My purpose is to do good by reporting what for me is the truth. Anyone is welcome to challenge me and if you’re a member of the elite or have a certain position in society then I guess life is more positive.

I am fully aware of history and know there are many good things to do here. What I am eventually going to promote are some of the more novel and interesting things about Metro Manila. That won’t come quickly as I’ve only posted 23 pieces to date, this being number 24. I wish people would read the about section of this blog where I explain that this is primarily designed to introduce foreigners into a difficult to comprehend culture and make some attempts to give a little reasoning for some of it. I don’t know what I’m supposed to be doing and I have expressed that this is written to guide outsiders through culture shock and help them accept and adapt as well as promote mutual understanding. I still vehemently deny the accusations of just a very few. I just thought this was the right time to say it.

I am not a travel agent. I am not trying to book people into resorts and get paid for it. I have no reason to lie, I just write and I do not only say negative things. I believe the few critics I have had, had only read selective pieces where the subject matter was not meant to be positive, but simply an account.

A Filipino just today decided to blame me for all the wrongs of the British Empire, too. I had to remind him I wasn’t there, it wasn’t me. Doubt he got it though. In other words, I feel things with some are getting distorted. I ask people to read all my posts before they rush to judgment. But above all, please don’t ask me to not see much of what is happening whether good or bad, it’s not my fault.

Where Next?

(Photo by CoolBeanMommas.com)

Blogging is boring and I must be the ultimate bore to be doing it. But hey, it’s no worse than stamp collecting so give me a break, OK. Blogging about the Philippines, well yes, I ask myself, why on earth? Well, I’m a coward for bungee jumping, but I’m a warrior for talking shit online. Writing about a country with many imperfections and an oversensitive populace is not just difficult, it’s dangerous. Today, I’m really going to give it a go; I’m going to talk some serious shit. No controversies, just a little clearing of the mind before I carry on what I’ve started.

So right now, I’m in a state of confusion about how to carry on with this blog. I think it’s time to get this little boat I’ve set afloat on some kind of course. When I started this blog I thought just do it (no endorsement intended). I had no idea where it would go or if it would ever come to serve any purpose. I just wanted to do it. I just want to try things, let things build, develop and just see which way the wind blows it.

I’ve had a million thoughts of things to do with this blog, and they are mostly just loose ideas. Yet, at this point, I’m just another foreigner wittering on about failings, mindsets and giving amateur advice to potential visitors. Well, that’s where I’m up to so far.

This post is trying to explain that I don’t really have any solid aim, and I am still floating around the blogosphere building content and finding a course to steer. I have every intention of changing that in due course, I’m just not sure how yet.

What I hope I can achieve is to give local people, business and those that don’t have the means, opportunities. If you are selling something, I hope I can help you sell it. If you are job hunting, I hope I can put you in the frame and give a little platform to show yourself. If you’re going into business then I hope I can put you in touch with people to help you achieve it. Above all, I want to build some understanding between people here and us foreigners and see if we can actually learn from each other.

I also don’t want to be silenced by the ‘write positive or leave’ people. I intend to continue writing about the difficulties that people have here and I want to address so many issues such as animal cruelty, power for the sake of gain, and encourage people to learn for themselves the real history of this country and not the doctored version put around not only by this country’s agenda-motivated media but by bad, lazy reporting abroad.

Amongst all this I want to try to take on board suggestions and ideas from my growing readership. There are many things to appreciate this country for and I hope I am still writing this blog as the good news grows. I’m sure some of the changes desired by the people will influence changes here. I’m praying the families that control and virtually own this country think about reforming themselves. That’s not something at this point I’m overly optimistic about. I’m hoping I can encourage the people to think hard about the people they put into power. Common sense would solve many of the problems here; people need to know that sometimes, it’s their own doing. If you vote for slave masters, you will always be slaves.

Foreigners have their own ideas of what to do to fix the Philippines. Locals probably see it as interference. However, I really do believe exchanges of thinking can be healthy. We, as outsiders, really do have to try to relate to how things are done here and up to a point, accept it. Locals need to consider that sometimes, things could be done a little better. It’s no pissing contest, just trying to learn from one another.

What I’ve learnt so far from people here is that you must have patience to survive and let things go as getting mad only hurts yourself and doesn’t change anything. What I’ve tried to show people here is that if you want changes, then it’s you that has to change it. Combine the two together and you’re patiently complaining. Sounds silly, I know but what I’m trying to say is that to make anything better you really do need to speak up. That is where locals fail. What we need to learn from locals is that there is a way to do it without calling people stupid and making demands as well as appearing superior. That’s sometimes where we fail. We cannot change a culture simply because it doesn’t fit in with our thinking of how things should be.

So what’s the point of my talking shit and having no firm topic to discuss today? Well, over the last 40 days, I’ve just been writing, building and now I think it’s time to up the ante a little. I want to add a Facebook page so that topics and ideas can be shared easier. I want to try to empower by presenting local arts, events and alternative adventures for visitors here. Also for god’s sake, will somebody here feed me so I can introduce some unfashionable eating places? I could even handle a day at your resort if invited and reporting it. No, I’m not going to endorse nonsense. But I’m sure there are many unknown, un-thought of things to do which will make visitors time here just a little more worthwhile. Also, there are many pieces by other writers that are helpful and informative; I shall be leading you to them so you can learn for yourself.

So allow me this little time out post which is simply for me to re-group myself and put up a sail to encourage the wind to blow me somewhere. I still don’t know where I’m going with this. But that for me at least is just adding to the adventure.

Is There a Joke in It?

I have often thought what a difficult job it must be to be a comedian in the Philippines as they have a particularly amusing habit of having to announce a joke. When you’ve asked questions and got to the bottom of it, it’s again just one of those things which is easily explained and many of the assumptions as to why this is are not what they seem. Allow me to be a little clearer.

I was baffled as to why people here often say “joke” at the end of the sentence. It can be said in a variety of ways; sometimes to cover embarrassment at what they had said, or often simply to announce that it was meant humourously.

The covering embarrassment aspect is a difficult one to explain so bear with me. If someone compliments you, chances are they may kill the compliment by saying “joke” at the end to cover the embarrassment of having complimented you. It’s as if saying something nice about you causes an after-blush at having said it, so they say “joke”. I won’t pretend to fully understand it but the best I can do to explain is to say it’s possibly due to shyness. It’s like saying “I like you” then following it with “not really” to mask their embarrassment of having flattered you. Yes all very confusing.

That’s one way that joke is used at the end of a statement but the other use of saying joke is a little misleading too. I used to think that perhaps they had trouble working out what is funny and what isn’t and needed telling. I was utterly confused by the “joke” at the end as after all shouldn’t we know that without being told.

However this was simply my misunderstanding and Filipinos are not missing the joke as often as it seems nor are they explaining that it is a joke literally. So why do they need to announce it’s a joke?

Well it’s nothing more than a punch line which is commonly said after a humourous comment.

It’s a little like the old music hall drum roll at the end of a one liner in painful British music hall jokes which later was turned into saying boom boom after the punch line. Well, with Filipinos it isn’t necessarily after just one liner’s, it’s just announcing a joke, a little like canned laughter (which is used frequently on TV and radio here).

Why am I bothering to explain this? Well its one of many sources of misunderstanding between foreigner and Filipino. It’s a silly thing but I for one thought that they simply didn’t know a joke until they were told to laugh. Well it’s true up to a point but that’s common in many cultures. Americans invented canned laughter, British in days gone by would say boom boom, Filipinos say joke.

Sometimes it’s said to cover an unflattering remark or mild insult; they cover it by saying “joke” after. It’s as if to reassure you they are teasing and it wasn’t meant offensively. Confused? So am I.

The moral of this tale is, don’t assume it’s down to any kind of inability to recognize humour, it’s just something they say.

Filipinos laugh long and loud and are generally a happy people without meaning to sound cliché, but they are. Regardless of their willingness to laugh, sometimes they are not always going to get some of our humour. There is an excellent chance they will be taking your words literally and sometimes offended due to misunderstandings in what you have said. It’s happened to me dozens of times.

English is not their everyday tongue.If occasionally irony sometimes passes them by; I think it’s entirely forgivable when you consider that English is not the first language.

Being a silly European fellow, I had quite a time whilst learning the importance of “Joke” when I was teasing or just making a funny remark. Thinking myself to be a bit of a comedian I would happily make remarks which could be teasing the person or just generally being a fool. You would not believe the amount of times I unintentionally insulted people and wouldn’t know it.

In instances where it has happened with me, it could possibly be because of the crossover between English and how they comprehend English and not realizing I’m not serious. They tend to take your words very literally in their interpretation. When you think about it, it’s obvious as English does not come natural, it’s taught.

Although Filipinos have the talent to learn English as well as their various dialects and nearly all speak Tagalog, it’s asking a lot to expect them to fully comprehend the abstract in English with ease, as the abstract is often a feature in humour.

It’s not something entirely due to misunderstanding English as they do the same amongst themselves and you always hear them saying “joke” after they have made a funny or tease even in their own dialects. It’s just something they do and its open to misreading it from our side as foreigners.

However, you have to realize that the potential for misunderstanding or simply not getting you in the first place is far higher with someone speaking in English to them. We don’t always make it simple for them in how we put things in humourous conversations.

It’s totally impressive that even those with basic schooling in many cases still have some grasp at least of English. But you have to remember that where there is any degree of difficulty in understanding, they are going to take the literal meaning first before the abstract can be understood. You say “joke” at the end and they will re-process your remark and chances are no offense will be taken and they will see the joke.

This may seem a tedious point to write about, but I do so because it’s one of many areas where things are not as they seem and the likelihood for misunderstanding is high from both sides.

I’ve had conversations with other foreigners who have stated that Filipinos are dumb as they don’t know a joke until you say it’s a joke. This is harsh and misconstrued on the part of the foreigner, and I admit that I myself believed for a while that our humour was just not translatable to them. Sometimes that’s true, but assuming they say joke because they don’t know it’s a joke unless told is a major discredit to the Filipino. It’s just us not understanding the context that saying “joke” is used.

So if you’re trying to be funny, say “joke” at the end. Just be aware that some do not understand your humour, but many do and once you say “joke” at the end, they will probably laugh anyway just to be polite, but inside they may be saying to themselves, “what’s this cranky foreigner talking about”.

Metro Manila, Cities of Broken Dreams

Metro Manila – Class Contrast (Photo by Benjamin Myers)

Learning about the Philippines is a mammoth task. There is simply so much to find out and not being a Filipino means everything is a mystery and you are naturally prone to much misunderstanding about what you are seeing. All you have to go on is your own eyes but still much of it is difficult to comprehend. You see poverty, then drive or even walk a short distance and you see malls with condominiums alongside. Walk a little further, you see people sleeping on the streets then a little further on you witness school kids in fast food restaurants with laptops and tablets.

You notice that not everything is what it may seem. There are many very decent cars on the roads, people eat in expensive restaurants and as you leave the building, you walk past children picking out plastic bottles for recycling from the bins outside.

You see so much poverty and then you observe the other extremes of wealth and a lot in between wealth and poverty. It’s not everyone who has neither time nor patience to research and we tend to ask questions of people we know here and start putting together a jigsaw. Naturally, what you’re told depends on the beliefs of the person you ask as everyone has their own perspective; it’s very easy to be mis-educated.

You notice a lot of haves and a lot of have nothings and you cannot work it out for yourself. This blog only touches on the edges of the politics as giving a more detailed account of reasons for what you are witnessing is beyond me. So I will give only a surface impression and explanation of what you see as a visitor. To try to go into the subject deeply and giving an insight based on what I have learnt is not wise.

However, I do ask questions and naturally, one of them is why there are many people in certain areas that sleep on the streets. Why are there so many people trading on every available little space and how come Metro Manila became so overcrowded?

The account I will give is based on what I’ve read, seen, and what I’m told. I do not pretend to be an authority on the subject, and wherever I am inaccurate, I welcome being corrected.

It sounds like a familiar tale for many capital cities, but for some reason the streets paved with gold belief has in the past been very widely held, and judging by the amount of people pouring into the capital still, it seems to be a belief still held by many.

In the provinces, work is scarce. This is being addressed with various livelihood projects, the building of more roads to markets and this has been going on for many years all designed to encourage people to remain where they are in the provinces. The last administration made great strides in starting infrastructure projects and some of the good work is still happening. Sadly, every time a new administration comes into power, perfectly decent projects and ideas are squashed for political reasons of not wishing political rivals to gain any credit.

Metro Manila has huge amounts of people here who originate from all over the Philippines, who came and are still coming to seek better work opportunities. The story often is that family members are encouraged to take their chances in the metropolis, and in many cases, the family left behind in the province thinks that their problems will soon be over, and the money they earn will help those back home. They set off to Metro Manila in the belief that jobs are easier to come by. Sadly and not surprisingly, it is simply often not the case.

So a brother or sister, even father or mother will leave home and arrive on the ferry from all over the archipelago, sometimes with nowhere to live and hardly a peso in their pocket. It’s not an unusual sight to see whole families making the trip with nowhere to stay and no money, and the street is their home till something better comes along. That’s only one part of the equation as often they have aunties, uncles, cousins or friends that will help them with somewhere to stay as they try to make their mark in the capital. The heat is on and over the coming weeks or months, they spend time learning that Metro Manila does not offer the dreams they hoped it held.

So it could be fair to say that Metro Manila is a capital of broken promises and unfulfilled dreams. That sadness is evident everywhere you look. So many of these people have one hard existence but they persevere with their search as to go back home is an admission of failure, and having to disappoint the family that had such high hopes for them is a crushing blow for the returnee and the expectant family.

I mention these things because this is often the backdrop to what you are witnessing in the capital. As a further consequence, the overpopulation and demand means that the property rentals are higher and many who own property see this as an opportunity to make cash and rent out every available space often within their own house. One thing you always hear in Metro Manila is how good a business owning property can be. You are rarely short of takers and rents are high compared to the provinces.

So the result is people living in tiny little rooms, sharing facilities with other tenants commonly and it simply becomes an existence of work and sleep. Privacy is a luxury that many cannot enjoy. Many others don’t even have the luxury of a room and live in dormitories or bed spacers as they are locally known.

Obviously, not everyone’s a loser and some do get lucky and find a job. Some fall right on their feet and even find a decent job especially if they are college graduates. For the high school graduate, it’s very hard indeed as even the most menial of jobs sometimes require a college diploma.

Not only that, it seems that other qualifications are a standard also, such as being under 25, and what they term in the job advert as having a pleasing personality, which I believe has mixed meanings. When it states a pleasing personality is required, these jobs are not for males; there is a clue in there for you.

As a visitor, it can take you a long time if at all to work out what is going on in the internal organs of this collection of cities and in many cases, all over the Philippines. This is a part of the reason why Metro Manila has such a population problem as so many from the provinces have come here over the years.

Metro Manila is bursting at the seams, yet they still come ever hopeful and often ending up disappointed. It’s one of the many tragic tales of life in the Philippines, a country full of disillusionment and little hope for so many. What will stop them coming I don’t know, but if they believe that the capital is their best chance, it’s almost scary to imagine how hard life must be for some in the provinces. The Philippines is a beautiful country and not everything is as I describe it in this article. But the reasons for overpopulation in the capital is very much related to some long term failings of government, business and church over many decades leaving the provinces neglected and subsequently bringing a greater problem to the capital, overpopulation.

There are sunnier tales to be told about Metro Manila life and I fully intend to tell it as time goes by. I describe this situation mainly because a visitor cannot fail to notice the many problems around. Overpopulation is the main contributor to the shortcomings. It’s a question that many will ask. I’ve tried to answer it. It’s senseless to indulge in blame game. It’s far better to seek out solutions and make people aware of good things that are happening.

There are fewer unequal societies anywhere than the Philippines. You can draw your own conclusions from that. Nonetheless, there are efforts to address these problems and encourage people to remain in the provinces. The usual obstacle to progress and development as well as change is a lack of political will by all too many that stands for election for all the wrong reasons. Far too many politicians are from rich families that extend themselves into politics to further their own aims; the losers are always the people who foolishly elect them. This blog is intended to promote understanding and some basic explanations to visitors as to what they are seeing when they pass through Metro Manila.

To those that have accused me of painting negative pictures, all I can say is I can’t describe a flowerbed in a garden of weeds. There are some flowers in the garden of Metro Manila for sure and I will be coming to that. But when I set out to explain this city to someone who isn’t aware, then naturally overpopulation is possibly the most visible thing to the eye, and I cannot say the reason is because it’s so lovely, everyone wants to be here. I think sometimes that is what is expected of me and a non-rosy report gets frowned upon. All I can say to those people is “get real, Philippines.”

But change is slowly coming around. Real progress is far away. When the problems are removed from the eye, that’s when I can accurately say that things are getting better. It’s the people that have a will for change. A young and more aware population I hope will drive that change. Government isn’t quite on it yet and self-interest is still the main obstacle to change. The hope is that this young and disillusioned populace is starting to demand it. My other hope is that this will eventually bring about political reforms that benefit the people. Only time will tell.

Text Text

One of the first things I observed in the Philippines is the absolutely over the top use of texting. It was one of my first observations and it took me awhile to work out why.

As with most things, there is always a reason why, but coming from a place where a text is mostly used for the relaying of information or messages that are important, it really was puzzling to me when I first got here. It seemed to be a whole way of life for some.

As a new arrival as I was at the time, I had been in restaurants and observed groups of six sitting at a table, awaiting a meal and out of the six, probably four of them would be constantly texting. The other two probably want to text but can’t think what to text at the time. Whereas I smoke like a maniac, it appeared that people here texted for something to do with their hands which I guess is healthier than smoking.

Turn your head the other way, there’s a dating couple sat opposite each other and instead of looking into each other’s eyes and talking, they are both texting and barely a word is exchanged. I’ve often wondered if it’s because they are so shy and are texting each other. I was very bemused by all this to say the least.

You walk through the streets and people are texting as they walk, oblivious to everything around them and in the Philippines, it’s a dangerous practice as it’s all too easy to get in the way of a tricycle driver or fall down an open drain. It’s a national obsession, and you see text being used far more than you may observe in other countries.

I can only speculate as to why some of this is but one real reason that I believe holds ground is simply that there is no cheaper form of communication. It is very inexpensive to text in the Philippines. All the providers do promos, which offer all day texting at as little as 10 pesos. Filipinos know how to maximize a good deal and they text till they drop for very little money.

Photo courtesy of getrealphilippines.com

Another possible factor is that Filipinos are generally a little shy. It’s hard to define but they seem to be the kind of people who would be happier talking to you from afar and would probably be far more open through text exchange. Many romances and courtships are through text messaging. I’ve received many texts asking my name and, “Will you be my text mate?” is the question. I had never come across anything like this before and I found it fascinating.

This isn’t to say that Filipinos can’t talk, far from it. But this combination of factors especially the fact that it’s cheap has everything to do with it. It has set into the culture, and in a way it seems they are very comfortable with it.

So as you have a day’s texting for a small cost, the idea is to use it till your thumb becomes numb. Consequently, I have received some very funny texts in my time from people maximizing their promos and asking me “if I’ve had my lunch?” Prayers and quotes from god himself (whom I never knew had a cellphone). Others include “time for coffee”, “don’t forget breakfast” and even “do you love me” to which I reply, “I don’t know, who are you”?

You will observe that if you watch someone walk into anywhere like a restaurant or sit down on a bus or pretty much anywhere where it’s a little public (which is everywhere, its Metro Manila, no hiding place), then the first thing they are likely to do is grab their cell phone and just slightly hide behind it and text.

In this metropolis, a cell phone is a perfect screen. You feel very exposed and city paranoia is rife in such overcrowded places. Texting means you can hide from the world avoid unwanted attention and generally kill time.

So get used to excessive texting. You may need to give your thumbs a work out before you get here. Texting is a way of life so get used to it. They will speed past you, walk in front and then boom! Out of the blue, they just put on the brakes because of a need to text someone to say that they are “nearly there” or something.

For me it is totally over done but I say that as someone who isn’t much of a talker, we’re not all the same. The obsessive nature of texting here has often made me smile. The over use of it makes you wonder how they ever lived before the arrival of the cell phone. I’m certain that 70% of what’s sent to each other isn’t anything important. But Some Filipinos love to chat, and when they can’t chat, they text. Sometimes they chat with someone whilst they text. I think with evolution, in a few thousand years, Filipinos will develop a cell phone as an extra limb.

I have no data or research studies available on the matter but I bet at least 30% of the texts that are sent daily say simply OK. If you’re here long enough, it’s something you will possibly fall into, too. It’s not without its benefits.

It can sometimes be a nuisance though. I have had people try to befriend me through text pretending they don’t know me. They claim to not know me but what gives it away is that they text everything in English when I’ve never replied saying I wasn’t Filipino myself. Sometimes it’s the person you bought the load from and often they tell me a friend gave them my number. It doesn’t bother me as when I’ve had enough I just ignore, but it can be used to intimidate or harass something young ladies here often experience from shy would-be suitors.

I have to admit that there have been times when I have developed the obsession, too. In bored moments, I haven’t exactly asked if they have had their lunch, but I have indulged in some very silly pointless exchanges to pass the time.

Texting here is a way of life. It’s cheap and definitely used more extensively than anywhere else I know. Lawyers, politicians even release details to media via text. Most times, I pass a police officer on duty and he’s texting. I even laughed out loud many years ago when there was a military coup going on in Makati which fortunately failed. The soldiers that were positioned outside, ready to storm the building were all fervently texting whilst waving to the cameras. Yes, it’s a text republic here. Better start training those thumbs. Filipinos are great people to observe. This aspect is just one of many aspects that make me smile and in this case a totally harmless part of being a Filipino. Go with the flow and get that promo. It’s definitely better than watching local TV. I’ve been here long enough now to also feel a little naked without my cellphone. Don’t forget breakfast, nor lunch and definitely don’t fall for the pasaload trick.

You can pass loads to people and all too often I get these requests. I’ve worked out that some send pasaload requests to everyone in their phone book. They only ask a small amount so they don’t appear too much (grabe!). The idea being, if 2 or 3 of their friends respond and send that small amount of say 5 peso load, then that pays for the day’s texting via promo.

Naughty maybe, but harmless. Take care always. Another popular text.

Faulty Radars

Manila Traffic
(Photo courtesy of http://www.remate.ph)

People here are a mass of contradictions, and although for the most part, they are a polite and respectful people, there are a few engineering faults. The reason I point this out is basically to warn newcomers as to what to expect.

Before I go further, I wish to state that there is nothing wrong in pointing out differences especially ones that cause much confusion between people from different cultures and with different attitudes.

Filipinos sometimes wonder what on earth we, funny foreigners, are complaining about. Well, complaining is futile here anyway, so let’s say that this is just to give a people who come from places where it’s very different (outsiders) an idea of just how different it is here. Be mentally and emotionally prepared. It’s never fully explainable, but as you grow more used to it, you begin to understand it and the keyword is accept; things are done differently around here.

I, like many, would sometimes get frustrated at many things about some of the ways here. It’s different where we come from, I’m not saying better, just different. Adaption can only come when you understand it and that takes time.

In your early moments here, you are going to have a weakened heart from the stresses, but improved lungs from all the sharp intakes of breath you will need to be taking. Yes, patience is a must here. Prepare yourself for some rather perplexing and sometimes annoying behaviour and breathe deeply. It helps if you try to work out some reasons why things are as they are.

Contrasting ways

We, foreigners, or most of us at least, come from a climate of waiting for your turn in a queue and giving a little ground when in motion so we don’t collide, usually it’s self-administered. The lack of cooperation is difficult to understand when first faced with it here.

Here the traffic jams are sometimes caused by blocking maneuvers of motorists, which gridlock the main roads that in turn affects the side roads, and much of it is caused by everyone trying to gain a one meter advantage but only succeed in slowing everything down including themselves. Even though they know they are blocking access, the one meter of room they may have to give to let another vehicle through is something they are not prepared to give. In fact, their actions multiplied by everyone else’s actions end up always in a jam. I’m not saying all traffic jams are caused by this attitude, but it is definitely a major contributing factor to the gridlock.

If you look at it practically, it’s simply funny, and I think that’s the best way to go through your days here, smiling and acceptive, even when your toes are trodden on. You are going to have days before you get used to it here when you will be convinced you will never adapt. Thing is though, you do just as soon as you accept it and stop trying to change it. Trying to change it would simply be pointless.

Try not to see it like that and just remember that the Filipino was built with a faulty radar system and that’s it. Don’t get mad; don’t start blowing off with, “Watch where you’re going, you idiot!” or “Why are you blocking the possibility of me turning by blocking the access even though you’re in stationary traffic?!” Just keep remembering, it’s never been any different here and that little engineering fault many have, faulty radars.

If you’re ever foolish enough to drive, you had better develop the same mentality. If you drive here like you do at home, with courtesy, then you will possibly move 70 meters in a day.

Same applies when walking around. Many Filipinos in Metro Manila have no built-in radar whatsoever. A walk through a market, street or even mall is somewhat bewildering.

Now, we all know that when someone is walking forward and someone is approaching from the side that normally you just hold back half- a step to avoid a collision, if that person is fractionally ahead of you. It’s instinctive, or so I thought. Here in the Philippines, that is the part of a Filipino which sometimes malfunctions and collide, you probably will. Yet strangely, they don’t actually collide as much as you expect, it’s like they are so used to it, it’s become a skill. Collisions are inevitable when people give no quarter, but when it happens; they don’t get mad, just used to it.

Yes, we are talking on foot here but the same applies with traffic. It makes no odds if you’re a huge bus or a tricycle, the radar just isn’t working. So both are going through and nothing is going to stop them. That sometimes appears to be the thinking sometimes.

Few will say sorry when they walk into you, as it’s just something normal. The radars are faulty so we will collide so what’s to say sorry for.

As much as you take it in your stride, when it comes to the larger vehicles, it can be a very UN-funny feature of the Filipino. The standards of driving are about what you would expect after someone was taught to drive steering a carabao, and then given the keys to a car. Even worse, a bus or jeepney as the crazy antics of motorists here are just unbelievable!

Painting lines on the road is a total waste of money. I actually believe that some just think they are a cool road design and they have no idea why they are there. “Why have 3 lanes when you can have 7?!” also seems to be part of the thinking. What they haven’t worked out is that half the traffic chaos is simply caused by insane driving, trying to get ahead and leading to blocking. There is little to no guidance from authority as to how to drive in a cooperative manner; they simply don’t know any other way, they have never been shown.

The traffic weaves in and out from one lane to the other, and if you leave any gap, someone will take the space. They drive giving no quarter, won’t let you in or out if you need to change lane unless you force the issue, forget courtesy; you won’t often see that when driving around the capital although it does happen on occasion.

If you need to change lane in tight traffic, you would have to do it in a way that would suggest to others that if they won’t back down, you are going to exchange paintwork; as if you don’t, nobody will let you across. They simply don’t look at you and keep filling the space. This is a feature of rush hour traffic, a time when I wonder why anyone would want to travel in a car. Naturally, may be a little easier between 9AM and 3PM, the window hours between the number coding restriction rule.

If you don’t want to lose your cool and spend the rest of your days in a Filipino jail for a road rage murder, then don’t try and drive. Even bungee jumpers would think twice. It’s too slow to be dangerous in many places but it’s mental. Higher speed driving is another thing again. When on an open road, you will notice some insanely dangerous overtaking maneuvers. A heavy truck is hurtling towards them in the opposite direction but no matter. They overtake and it’s just an act of God that they don’t collide every time. They make frightening judgments as regards risk and just overtake regardless of what’s coming in the opposite direction.

If traffic is blocked going on one direction only, then many will simply go over to the lane for oncoming traffic and try to pass but as many do it, that means the oncoming traffic is blocked too by vehicles going the opposite way. It’s selfishness at its most extreme and none benefit for it but they will never stop and authority seems to be not dealing with it. They are used to it, too so doubt that they even recognize the problem; it’s self-created chaos.

Disable your radar

If you’re here for the long-term, then spend a long time working out how they do things on the road before you buy a car. You just might not want to use it.

In crowds, again the lack of radar will mean you will be on constant collision course with others. Now the question is, can you get used to this quickly and simply disable your own built-in radar system? That’s possibly the best way to counteract it, even though you don’t feel comfortable doing it.

Now what happens after you have been here a long time? You find yourself behaving more and more like many locals do. It’s simply a matter of do it or don’t ever get home. Nobody is going to sweetly hold back and let you through, at least not in rush hour or in the most crowded places such as market or busy street when you’re walking.

Other things not radar-related are such as when awaiting to be served at a busy store, people will just come up and shout out what they wanted disregarding you were there first. How do you prevent it? You don’t. So you simply have to do the same.

As I’ve said far too often already in earlier articles, much of this is due to overcrowding and living in a city of faceless people who are simply trying to move forward quicker than anyone else. You are going to have to adapt, stay cool, and lose some of your inbuilt manners.

This is Metro Manila or at least much of it. In these situations, these people don’t seem right at all and it has you seriously asking yourself, will you ever get used to it.

To a people who haven’t seen it any other way, it’s not such a problem as it is to us. We’re not used to it; it’s against what we were taught. Simple moral is re-learning everything you know; this is Metro Manila.

After a while watching how locals manage is possibly your best tip. I spent months possibly a year or 2 really useless at crossing roads here. They come at you from all directions and it’s scary. Then I noticed that in a strange kind of way, they are not always as inconsiderate as I thought. Simply step out gently, hold up your hand, they slow down to let you cross. The etiquette is there; it’s just nothing like how we do it. Observation is the key. Locals don’t get mowed down or not often at least. Do the same, it works. You have to simply announce you’re stepping out with a raised hand; they don’t actually kill you, I even get smiled at often by the one I’ve stepped in front of.

It’s a collection of cities with 12 million people in it. It works for them. I know it’s not easy to change the way you have done things all your life, but simply disable your radar and go. Our nice little ways work fine in our less hectic spaces in our home countries. It doesn’t apply here.

I believe people are aware of the negative impact of their radar-less ways. In quieter situations, it’s less apparent. Be risqué and the biggest lesson to learn from locals is don’t get mad, stay cool and you find your patience emerges. Before you know it, you will be off the Valium.

So I hope this advice makes sense as you start out in the capital. It will take a lot longer than a month’s vacation here to adapt, but you will. Switch off your radar, and just collide and smile. Patience is something I’ve learnt from the Filipino. They don’t get mad; why should we?

Two Girls, a Boy and a Goat, Please

I am delighted to at last be able to step away from endless posts about transportation and commuter life in Metro Manila. If you’re a local or even a foreigner that’s been here awhile, then much of it must seem like stating the obvious.

Does it need explaining? Why don’t I just let people come and see for themselves. Well, it would be a lot simpler if I was writing about the provinces. A straight culture guide, a bit of history, way of life description, local food knowledge, best eating spots, the nearest beach and much talk about friendly people and my job is done. I dream of the opportunity and all very nice. Point is there are a million people already writing such stuff about the Philippines. What I’m attempting to do is explain away the everyday ordinary world of Metro Manila and how to adapt to it as best you can without becoming mentally unbalanced.

I think locals don’t recognize the way of life in the capital as anything unusual because they are so used to the madness. If you are a part of it, raised in it, it’s everyday life, it’s normal. The longer you are here, the more it becomes like water off a duck’s back, and you simply become a part of the asylum and adapt. But to say it’s an easy transition to get to that frame of mind would not be true. It’s just simply overwhelming and a lot of adjustment is required.

Coming to terms with the noise, the volume of people, the stress, heat, traffic and general confusion that is much of Metro Manila is something you won’t manage quickly. So whilst we’re stood around taking in all we are seeing, locals are also watching us. We must be very funny in the eyes of a Filipino as they watch us watching them as fresh-faced tourists.

Not because some foreigners wear socks with sandals either, although that should be grounds for deportation in my opinion, but overall, we are a mixed bunch and some appear more like ordinary Joes and some not.

Unfortunately, it has to be said that a few visitors and foreign residents are here for unsavoury purposes. For this reason, a mind-set has been created among some locals as regards what foreigners are all about. That small group of visitors wanting fun has been turned to mean most of us in the minds of some locals. They think that’s the only reason we ever go out.

Some may think of you as someone who comes strictly for the easily available cheap sex. The disproportionate amount of old foreigners with young wives or girlfriends gets noticed, too. Some visitors have tastes best described as simply illegal or dubious.

This is not only echoed here as you hear the same talk from abroad, too. It gets forgotten that most visitors are here for reasons other than vice. But the negative is the one that stays in some people’s minds; we’re all up to no good.

One of the most unpleasant aspects of being here is the many locals wanting to aid you in finding what they perceive you are looking for. “Chicks, sir” is often called out to you. You ignore them yet they are so confident you’re a deviant foreigner, they actually follow you and keep up the asking of what it is you want, and simply don’t take no for an answer.

I once had a gay start walking with me in a mall. He made friendly talk and sprung it on me the usual question of, “Do you want a chick?” Already fed up of his attitude, I kept walking and said, “No, it’s OK, thanks. I don’t need anything from you.” Thinking I’d said enough to get rid of him, I was surprised when he continued with, “You want a boy then?”

I really wanted him gone by now and my tone got sharper, and I replied, “No, I don’t. I’m fine. I don’t want anything. Take care.” And I foolishly thought, I’d said more than enough to make him go away. To my amazement, he did not let up, and he took a new approach saying, “Don’t be shy now; you can tell me. I can help you just tell me what it is you want, I can get it for you.”

At this point, I lost my cool and stopped still. I turned to him and said, “ Look, you’re pissing me off now. I’ve already told you many times, I don’t want anything from you”. His reaction was so strange to me. He got very irritated and despite all I’d just said, he still said to me in a very annoyed tone, “What the hell is it you do want?! I can help, just tell me!” I just ran out of words and walked away very fast zigzagging to make it hard for him to keep following me, and also drawing attention to the fact I didn’t want him around me any longer. It worked; he went.

That, among other similar incidents brought it home to me just how some just won’t believe you’re not constantly needing sex or some action or whatever you want to call it. It’s very difficult knowing so many are thinking that way about you, and you’re only out to get some coffee and a loaf of bread.

We, as visitors or residents, just have to ignore the negative stereotyping. This is a minority view and most are not so ignorant, but you will encounter that thinking. The clues start when you’re frequently asked such things as, “Do you need a chick?” It was something I learned to deal with but sadly, had to get quite aggressive more than once to make them understand I’m not needing sex every time I go out. I found it most concerning how they persisted and I could sense they felt if they just persist, I will crack and own up that I’m really looking for 2 girls, a boy, and a goat, all before breakfast.

For the most part, you are treated fine by most people and most don’t always hold assumptions about you. It is misunderstandings all the way, and rightly or wrongly, funnily or UN-funnily, this creates its own drama, and above all comedy, and sometimes tragedy. I’m certain you will be amused by much of what you see although incidents like I just described are not among the funnier moments. I know these foreigners exist, but it’s a hard thing to take to be assumed to be the same.

It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking everyone has that kind of thinking about you, but most don’t. Remain open and responsive and don’t judge the Filipino based on the attitude of a large minority.

In the main, Filipinos are warm, friendly, smile a lot, sing a lot, and sometimes, misunderstand a lot, but they are rarely abusive, or at least not on purpose. They do really laugh a lot but on occasion, they can completely miss the joke sometimes, too. When it comes to local and foreigner interactions, the language barrier is usually the single-most cause of misunderstanding. Although many, even most have some grasp of English; still, misunderstandings are frequent.

You may have to explain what you want to say in as simple terms as possible. Remember, this is not the first language. Most speak English well enough, and many understand the words, but can often mistake the meaning. Be prepared for these misunderstandings, but on the bright side, you will find these misunderstandings can create much accidental comedy.

Some people here can be a little over sensitive about criticism and they can take offense too easily. It’s usually because they have misread a remark. It’s easy to be taken literally sometimes. Even writing a site like this in an honest manner has its dangers due to over-sensitivity. I find for the most part, Filipinos are good fun, happy by nature, with a love of laughter but also over dramatic and with some, definitely hypersensitive. Be guarded in what you say sometimes and think how easily a remark could be misinterpreted before you say it.

As you start to venture out and interact with the locals, you are going to find many things funny and equally sad. Get out there, observe and whilst scratching your head trying to work out what makes these people tick, I’m sure you will observe many things that will make you angry but mostly make you smile. Everywhere you go, you will stumble upon a little theatre and you’re in danger of a sensory overload. As difficult as it is, this is life in the 16 cities and a municipality, that make up Metro Manila. Grow a thick skin and deflect the stereotyping. Likewise, don’t judge everyone on the attitude of some. It would not be accurate. The vast majority will see you for who you are. Mind-sets are a big problem here and all too many assumptions abound.

Most of us are just ordinary people, not sex tourists, not always rich as many think and not here to retire or marry a young lady. The assumptions will drive you crazy, but equally don’t assume everyone here has such closed thinking, they don’t, as you will soon find out.

Taxi’s the Good, the Bad

The most convenient method of travel around Metro Manila is by taxi. They are cheap and there are certainly plenty of them. Let it also be said that most are usually quite decent and fair and do as they should by putting the meter on before they drive off with you on board. They also take you to your destination via the shortest route, are polite and I cannot say enough good to credit these guys.

Taxi travel in Metro Manila can most definitely be problematic at the best of times. There are many things you need to be aware of when riding in taxis. But at the risk of overplaying a point, I want to ask readers to remember the good ones before we jump into an “all of them” type of discussion. It is not all of them that do wrong.

It has to be faced though that many of them are simply awful and have dirtied the name of a noble profession. I find it so sad that minorities always blacken the reputations of the majority. Unfortunately, some of the characters that call themselves taxi drivers have done a major disservice to the many decent ones whom often get tarred with the same brush. It’s time to give a little praise to the ones nobody talks about.

I say this because most times, I have few problems with taxi drivers. I never share stories with friends about how good the driver was nor comment about his politeness.

However, when you get a bad one that attempts to set an inflated price and refuse to put on the meter or take you on a detour to maximize the fare, then that always becomes a talking point. We tend to forget the good ones.

You only have to stand on the curbside in most locations for a short while, and it probably won’t be long before one comes along with the overhead light on meaning he is unoccupied.

I have ridden in brand new taxis with much appreciated air-conditioning as well as some older beaten up ones with air-conditioning that doesn’t seem to be working as well as doors or windows that won’t open. Whether old and beaten up or new, it’s noticeable that most of the drivers keep the interior clean.

The majority of the drivers are quite friendly and competent in English. I cannot honestly say that most are great drivers unfortunately. Taxi drivers are among the worst of all drivers in Metro Manila (in my opinion). There are many taxi companies and most are credible.

The ones to watch for are listed here. If you require a taxi for a longer period of time, you can negotiate and get a fixed price and use them for the morning, afternoon or all day should you require it. Likewise going out-of-town can be arranged at a negotiated rate.

Taxis are without doubt the easiest way to get around, especially if you’re a visitor here. The biggest asset is the sheer volume of them. However, it is important you don’t be too casual about riding in taxis.

Taxi’s the Bad

I stand by my comments regarding most taxi drivers being not so bad and we should not forget that. But again, we are in territory where certain things have to be said. Some Metro Manila taxi drivers are totally beyond the limit. It also seems that little is being done about it.

I know I am very much not alone in my thinking. It’s not just outsiders that think it, Filipinos do, too. Not many have kind words for taxi drivers in Metro Manila. That is somewhat unfair sometimes as I find many to be just fine, but when they are bad, they are bad; and it stays in your head to the extent that the good guys are forgotten.

There have been times I could simply beat one of them to death with a soft toy out of sheer annoyance and frustration. I should now set out to explain why I’m starting to sound a little deranged and explain my murderous statement.

Now, unless I am misinformed, part of their remit as a taxi driver is to take passengers where they want to go within Metro Manila. In fact, on many of the taxis, you see written “to anywhere in Luzon”.

Now I can understand that some may have a problem with going out of the metropolis, but it seems that many of them only want to operate within their locality, and seem to fail to understand that a taxi service is about taking people where they want to go, and not where the driver feels he should stay.

They directly turn you down if you want to go further than a couple of kilometers and unbelievably say, “too far”.

First off, how do you make a living by only going within a couple of kilometers? You are a taxi driver, then be a taxi driver and actually take the passenger where he wants to go. It is not supposed to be just about them. They should offer a service for the customer that they actually expect from a taxi driver. Why on earth would you be one if you were not prepared to do that?

Sadly, this is common thinking with many individuals that are running a business in the Philippines. They seem to fail to recognize that if you offer a service, you are offering that service for the client; it is not just about you as a provider. If you’re not providing anything near the service a customer expects, then give up your taxi and sell bananas.

This is an all too common conversation with taxi drivers here in Metro Manila. It goes something like this, “Take me to Quezon City,” I would say. So if I’m in such as Manila itself, that means you want to ride approximately 8 to 10 kilometers. The taxi driver will reply, “Too far.”

Somewhat bemused by this response, I will say, “What do you mean too far, you’re a taxi, aren’t you?” The second reason they give you is, “Oh, traffic,” too which I cannot control my sarcastic instincts, and reply “So you’re a taxi driver, so you should know even better than me that Metro Manila is always traffic, so what exactly do you mean?”

Usually, at this point, they don’t know what to say anymore and simply resort to saying “No, I’m not going there,” and wait for you to get out. I usually oblige and cannot resist out of sheer disbelief uttering a few expletives on my way out. I, then, look for someone who actually wants to be a taxi driver instead of just going ’round the corner patrolling his own neighbourhood.

If I am able to get any kind of explanation, they usually say, “I don’t make anything coming back.” Well, for me as an ex-courier driver, I really cannot understand their logic. If they are over the other side of the city after dropping you, well they’re a taxi, aren’t they?

Isn’t it a given that you pick up your next ride near to where you dropped off your customer? There are so many places they can go nearby where they will pick up another ride. This is how you earn a living, I would have thought. Eventually, you will find yourself back nearer your own area, and then you go home.

How on earth can you call yourself a taxi driver if you’re only prepared to take people no further than the smell of the abobo your wife is cooking? That’s the logical way to make a good living from driving a cab I would have thought, and that way you don’t have to waste fuel with an empty cab and you can collect far higher fares than by just going round the corner.

Then they tell you that it’s hard to make a living driving a cab. I’m not surprised with that attitude but they won’t see the logic of what I just said so I’m wasting my time ever trying to tell them, I’ve tried.

On a bad day, you may encounter 3 or 4 of these before you find one that actually is aware that he is a taxi driver and they are supposed to drive wherever you want to go. They operate as if it is for their convenience and not yours. Take a deep breath and just let him go.

Unfortunately, this is not the worst of the sins of certain Metro Manila taxi drivers. So you have found one quite happy to take you where you want to go. So now it is time to try their luck and take maximum advantage with lines such as “Oh, that’s far!” when you state your destination and then proceeds to give you an inflated price.

The justification for this is the old one “Oh, traffic!” What he is really trying to do is take you without using the meter, which gives him the opportunity to inflate the price, sometimes by a huge amount compared to what the fare would be if it was metered.

The next trick is to simply not put on the meter. The intention being when they arrive at your destination, they are going to ask some outrageous amount, and think you are simply going to pay it.

I had one driver once who set off with me on board and didn’t put on the meter. I said, “Can you please put on the meter?” He pretended not to hear me and continued to drive. I again said, “Hey, you haven’t put on the meter yet.” Again, he pretended to not hear me and then even started speaking on his phone disregarding my request for the meter to be put on. Somewhat annoyed by his antics I decided that I should use it to my advantage and also to teach him a lesson for being so underhand. I patiently waited for him to finish his fictitious phone call and said to him, “I have asked you several times to put on the meter, so I will tell you what, whatever it says on the meter when I get out is what I shall give you, as it’s not on, that means nothing.” Faster than a speeding bullet, he put on the meter, and I got the first 1 and a half kilometers for free so I had the last
laugh.

Never allow them to not put on the meter. If he won’t put it on, get out and if possible take down his details and report him. His details are written on the inside of the door. Take it all down and call the LTFRB (Land Transportation Franchising & Regulatory Board) that handles customer complaints against any public utility within Metro Manila.

Some will even say, “Meter is not working!” If it’s not working then he should be having it repaired and not working until it is, so he is lying, and so again, get out.

The fun may not be ended yet as there are other little tricks, and one of them is very difficult to avoid if you are a stranger in town. Despite the fact that many of them don’t want to go much further than round the corner, when they do take you, they want to go all around the capital to go somewhere 5 kilometers away. Yes, the unrequested tourist route is the next possible problem.

Being fully aware that you don’t have much idea about where you are and don’t know much about Metro Manila, they take you on a joyride to put the maximum on the meter trying to prolong the ride.

Avoiding this isn’t easy as how do you know if he is going the super long way round or not. I’m sure this trick isn’t unique to Metro Manila, I imagine it’s something taxi drivers all over the world have done at some time, but there are some here that take it too extremes.

I wish the more negative aspects of traveling by taxi were finished here, but unfortunately I have one more thing I have to warn you about. Something I was almost a victim of myself.

On rare occasions, you may find yourself subjected to a little magic. This is the name given to a little device that some taxis have which manually moves the meter by clicking a little handheld button. This is something they are more likely to use on a foreigner in the belief you are not aware of the rate that the meter clicks up a few pesos. Every time they click the button, the meter increases.

My good fortune was due to the fact I had recently seen a feature on local TV all about the taxi drivers magic button. I took a taxi to Coastal Mall in Parañaque from Manila.

He may have gotten away with it if it wasn’t for his own stupidity. Not too long after I got into the taxi and told him where I wanted to go, I dozed off. For some reason, he never used his magic button to increase the fare on the meter whilst he had his best opportunity. I was happily sleeping and when I woke, I observed the meter, and it was displaying the amount I would have expected for the distance we had covered.

As we got closer to Coastal Mall, we hit traffic. As we approached the heavy traffic, I took another peek at the meter and again nothing seemed wrong, the amount was still what I had expected. As we were stuck in traffic, I observed the meter, a little anxious that being delayed would make the ride all the more expensive.

I saw the meter jump up a little and watched as it kept on jumping at a rate that suggested we was going at around 100 kilometers an hour. I kept observing the meter going up yet we were virtually stationary. He managed to add around another 150 pesos in a matter of minutes, and we weren’t even moving.

Being aware of magic, I observed his thumb. I noticed, he kept clicking something discreetly in his hand and every time his thumb moved, the meter would jump up. I straight away knew what was going on.

I decided to say nothing at this point and just watch. He continued to click away almost doubling the fare and all in stationary traffic.

When we reached Coastal Mall, he looked at his meter and told me the amount. I replied, “Are you sure about that fare, kuya (Older Brother in Tagalog), as I couldn’t help but notice your meter was going a little crazy when we were stuck in traffic!”

I didn’t have to say any more as he went into a little panic, became nervous and to avoid a problem for himself, quickly said, “Never mind what’s on the meter, call it 150 pesos!” which was even less than I expected to pay. I simply replied “now that’s more like it isn’t it”, paid him the 150 and got out.

So unfortunately it’s far from joyous every time you get into a taxi in the capital. With most, you won’t have such problems, but with far too many, you will.

Train Trials

If I had written this article about six months ago, it would have contained little that was positive. In the time I’ve been here, I’ve never seen anything quite as insane as the way some behave when they ride on the local rapid transit trains – the MRT (Metro Rail Transit) or the LRT (the Light Rail Transit) across Metro Manila. If you wanted to see people here at their very worst, just go to a busy train station in rush hour.

Getting caught up in it can leave you frustrated with not only people, but also the two agencies that run the rapid transit system. The dangerous and outrageously selfish behaviour of many passengers was not being policed sufficiently.

After a pause from using trains, I took a few rides again and I was delighted to see that there were some actions being taken at long last to prevent a catastrophe and make train travel less dangerous. The insane behaviour of far too many made train travel almost unbearable. Something needed to be done.

As regards a useful, fast, and at present inexpensive way to get across Metro Manila then the Rapid Transit meets that standard. There are 3 lines, LRT1 LRT2 and MRT3.

MRT3 and LRT1 are the worst as regards volume of travelers and LRT2 is a little easier. It’s the most recent addition and they had the good sense to use bigger trains which definitely helps.

The positive aspect to this story is that the two agencies that manage the railways are now beginning to address the problems. It is only a start and there is a long way to go and much more that could be done to improve things, but a start it is, and I’m hopeful we will be able to add safe to a list of credits for the rapid transit train service soon.

The service itself is fine. It reaches to many parts of the capital. Many stations have tricycles or pedicabs outside for local needs as well as jeepneys and the rapid transit train service is without a doubt the fastest way to get across the city.

They invite suggestions online and they seem to have the best of intentions, I think that’s undeniable. Now with some changes being implemented, it may suggest they actually mean it and do listen. Only time will tell.

Rapid Transit Trauma

To give you a fuller picture of what I’m talking about, I will give an account of how it used to be.

Before the introduction of these new rules, the people were killing a good thing. They made it so hard not just for others, but for themselves too. What qualifies this statement? I will set out to describe a mad rush hour ride on the MRT/LRT service, and you decide if I was right to be very concerned, frustrated, and in the main, totally disappointed with people.

You expect it to be busy and you expect a little pushing and shoving when there is such a high volume of travelers all catching trains at the same time. But if you wanted to make it an even more stressful and difficult experience than it already was, as well as dangerous, there were many here that were well-qualified to show you how.

First off, there was no control on numbers either on the train or even scarier in some respects, on the platform. Throngs of people and passing trains don’t make a good mix.

When the train arrives, the fun really begins. When people try to get on a train, you would see a battle going on at every door. People are getting on while people are getting off? Result: they couldn’t get on, they couldn’t get off = mayhem!

Not only that, those on the train would pack themselves around the doors to guarantee they could get off when they reach their station. Sometimes, the middle part of the carriage would be relatively sparse of people, but at the doors, they would be nose to nose and no matter how squashed they were, they would not give up their place near the door. This effectively blocks the exits and the chaos is easy to imagine.

When it’s your turn to get off, it could be a fearsome experience. You simply couldn’t get through the throngs of door-huggers and it can be one hell of a battle to make it to the door. If you succeeded, then the moment the door opens, you will be greeted by a wall of crazed, rabid commuters whose single purpose was to get on that train. So after you had succeeded through the first stage of getting to the door, you then had to depart the train against a tsunami of mental passengers getting on with no intention of waiting for anyone to step off first. Consequence, you can’t get off the train, and it would be equally difficult to get on. You don’t need a university course to realize that that cannot work, but so many just don’t get it. They made train travel hell and I cannot find the words to express the sheer and utter stupidity of it.

There was nothing like enough guards to prevent it and the ones that were manning the platform were simply overwhelmed and there was little to no attempt to prevent an impending disaster. How there weren’t fist fights every day, I don’t know. Apart from blow whistles to warn people to not get near the edge of the platform or stop men from getting in the all-women’s carriage, guards did little to control the crazed hordes of commuters despite the obvious danger. Even if they were to try, there was never enough of them.

I have witnessed families get split because of the crazy commuters from hell pushing, someone often gets left behind. If anyone was stupid enough to bring small kids with them at those times, that would be reckless and irresponsible to say the least, even if they take the first carriage which is strictly for pregnant women, the elderly, the disabled, and people with small children.

I’ve seen people transported with feet off the ground in crushes of people and seen many sandals and shoes on the floor where people have lost them being carried by the crowd.

It’s a like a dog eat dog mentality, and as in so many cases with things here in Manila, people end up going backwards for the want of going forward. It defies all logic and is without doubt, the moment you are most likely to want to bang people’s heads together.

I wont try to analyze as to why people think such behaviour can help them advance, but I will say that with the huge amount of daily commuters using trains in a massively overpopulated collection of cities like Metro Manila, then train travel can not be expected to be easy. I fully appreciated the enormity of the task when it comes to changing people’s behaviour. But when it becomes as dangerous as it was, and still is, with it being such a stressful and even frightening experience, something had to give, and at last they are doing something. I’m not sure it’s working that well on the MRT line, but the LRT are having a little more success.

Outside of rush hour, it is a far less unpleasant experience. Rush hour in Metro Manila starts at around 6:00 AM and goes on till around 10:00 AM and probably at its worse between 7:00 AM to 9:00 AM. Then from around 4:00 PM till around 9:00 PM, it’s all happening again perhaps starting to ease from around 8:00 PM. Rush hour here is a very long hour. It is a much nicer experience outside of these times and an obvious tip would be to avoid rush hour.

On the way into the stations, people start well enough and form orderly queues awaiting security to check their bags. It continues in the ticket queues which are usually long during busy times and people would be comparatively sane and form mostly orderly queues. To prevent delays, most people purchase stored value tickets where you can buy 100 pesos worth of rides on one ticket which saves a long time in queues. After you have got your ticket, it was into the fire. The everyday battle of the commuters is about to begin; you need to be ready.

No people are perfect, and I’m sure most railway providers around the world have their problems, too. But seeing it so vividly here was to me a little scary. Scary because so many can be so out of control with their manners and thinking and obvious total lack of concern for anything other than themselves, and the problems to others they cause.

On The Right Track

The rules and changes are in their infancy still, but at last they know they had to do something. The MRT took the lead and a little later, the LRT was playing their part, too, although it would appear that although the MRT line began the initiative, they haven’t quite managed the implementation as well as the LRT. The first thing the MRT did was to paint a yellow box positioned where each door of the train stops. Not long after, the LRT did the same. The idea being that people are supposed to not enter the yellow box until those wanting to exit the train was all off. In short, it’s being much better implemented by the LRT lines; MRT improvements in enforcing discipline seems to be not working too well, but let’s hope that is addressed soon.

I haven’t caught that many trains since these rules were implemented but from what I was told, people were, for the most part, following the instruction, but some were still rudely and thoughtlessly behaving in the same old manner as before. There were more guards around and they were doing their best to enforce the rules. But with such a volume of people on the platforms, I imagine it was an extremely difficult task. However, I see signs that the MRT is not managing the early changes so well which doesn’t give much hope for future improvements. Just this morning, I took an MRT train at a station where there was little to no enforcement that I could see and consequently, the people were behaving as badly as they always have and nobody was trying to prevent it.

I was delighted to discover that the safety aspect had been greatly improved, in theory at least. They now limit the amount of people allowed on the platform and now the platforms of the busier stations have fewer people on them which in turn means the people have less need to push and shove, making it a whole lot safer and making it easier to get on and off trains. Yet again, I have to say that the LRT are having more success with this and I see signs that the MRT is slipping back as enforcement isn’t that obvious.

There is of course a downside in so much as it means long queues outside the stations as they only let a measured amount of passengers onto the platform. I imagine this has added much journey time to commuters, and yes, I’m sure it’s very tiresome, but safety should always be the first concern. The rail authorities do not have the power to cut in half the population of Metro Manila, so without that power, it’s simply something they had to do.

It does seem to have made a difference at some stations at least, and my last few rides on the train in rush hour was certainly more tiresome, having to stand in a queue for such a long time; but the reward is when you get onto the platform. The battle of the commuters was far less savage.

I don’t want to overstate it as I still see problems and further need for improvement. It is only being implemented at the busier stations, which I think is a mistake. There are times that even the quieter stations are busy, and as they are not policed so well as the larger stations, you still witness some pushing and shoving around the doors.

I know they want to make profit but I have been on trains that were still much too overcrowded and they haven’t solved the problem of the door-huggers who simply refuse to stop blocking everyone’s exit and entry.

But I’m delighted to say that a start has been made and rules are being implemented even if not always too convincingly. There’s a long way to go but you see signs of improvement. Rush hour train travel isn’t easy still, but it’s getting better. My fear is that if they fail with these implementations, then further improvement simply won’t happen.

So how do you feel when catching trains around Metro Manila? Are you happy with the new changes even though it delays you? What do you see that could be done to improve things further?

For what a suggestion of mine is worth, I’d like to say that I really feel that you will never get people to change the way they have been all their life by painting a few arrows and boxes on the ground. That’s just not Filipino; it won’t happen. It needs actual implementation and on the MRT especially, I don’t see it being done at all convincingly and much of the old problems have not gone away.

I personally would like to see a full barrier the whole length of the station preventing anyone getting near the train doors before everyone has gotten off. When the exiting passengers are clear, then they could open gates to let people approach the doors and enter the train making it a far smoother and safer experience.

What was tending to happen was a large minority of people were spoiling things for the majority which in turn has the majority behaving in ways they wouldn’t normally behave, but if they didn’t join the pushing and shoving, they were simply going to get left behind and pushed out-of-place. The minority dictated the pattern forcing the better behaved majority to behave in the same manner as them. It brings out the worse of behaviour from those that in other situations would not dream of getting involved and adding to the mayhem.

I’m still not convinced that it’s going to work and only limiting the amount of people on the platform at selected stations, for me, is a mistake. I suspect economics are the reason why, but when it comes to putting people in such danger and making train travel hell, then they simply have to find the money. No amount of money can replace a lost life. It really can be that bad.